14/4/10: Quirky Madrid

Visiting Madrid but sick of following those well-worn paths to the same old tourist traps? Here’s our alternative guide to the off-kilter gems of this one-of-a-kind city.

http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/quirky-madrid/



Visiting Madrid but sick of following those well-worn paths to the same old tourist traps? Every guidebook you read will mention the art museums, the palace, the bull ring and the tapas restaurant that only absolutely everyone visiting the city will know about, but what about the sights that make it truly unique? Here’s our alternative guide to the off-kilter gems of this one-of-a-kind city.

The turtles in Atocha train station

 Atocha Station's Tropical Garden

(Almost) as good as going to the Madrid Zoo, the oldest part of the city’s Atocha train station has been provided with an indoor tropical garden and nature habitat following its redesign by architect Rafael Moneo. At the front of this garden area there’s a pool which is filled to the brim with turtles swimming in the water, crawling on the rocks, or more often than not sitting extremely – almost disturbingly – still. Whilst their health is frequently debated (you may find yourself wondering if some of them might in fact be, well, dead) this hasn’t stopped people gathering to observe them whilst waiting for their trains.

Apparently all the turtles in the pond have been brought there by the people of the city so whilst this could be a case of ‘a turtle’s for life, but someone else can take care of it after Christmas’ it has, at least, provided otherwise neglected turtles with an alternative habitat in this landlocked city.

Chamberí Metro Musuem

Olde Worlde charm at the Chamberí metro station

Or as you might be tempted to call it: the ghost station. Located on metro line 1 between the Bilbao and Iglesia stations, the Chamberí metro station closed in 1966 when the Ministry of Public Works realised they couldn’t modify the platform to accommodate modernised trains. It fell into disrepair and then decay though the track that ran through it was maintained because of its position on the metro line.

In 2008, 42 years after its closure, the station reopened as a public museum designed in the style of the train stations of old to commemorate the metro’s past.  Entry is free and the station is open from 11am every day except Mondays. Whilst by no means a large place (the majority of the museum lies along the platform), it’s full of character, with old-style advertisements and original features giving visitors the curious sensation of being separated from reality and out of sync with the modern world. As the trains that whizz past get only a fleeting look at the station hopefully someone is looking out wondering if they just imagined you….

Cine Doré

Another restored gem of the city is the Cine Doré, one of Madrid’s first cinemas and still where the Spanish National Film Library’s archives are screened. Its three screens offer an eclectic line-up of films in their original language as well as seasons dedicated to a specific director or film movement.

The beautifully maintained main auditorium, with its connected cafe and bookstore, is the best place to experience the theatre but its rooftop bar comes a close second – outdoor screenings are held here throughout the summer.

The cinema’s website is updated monthly with their programme; film tickets cost less than three euros.

The ‘Heavies’ of Gran Vía

Punk rockers and 'political activists' (!) Emilio and José

Madrid’s principal street Gran Vía is celebrating 100 years of existence this year but nothing on this famous street has made a deeper impression, locally at least, than the infamous ‘Heavies of Gran Vía’.

The 41-year-old twin brothers Emilio and José Alcázar have dedicated the past five years to standing outside the Bershka clothing store on Gran Vía every evening. Why you ask? Well, Bershka occupies the site where their favourite hangout, music store Madrid Rock, used to be. To keep the memory of the store alive they spend every day on the pavement outside the entrance. Think David engaging in a benign protest against the global Goliaths of homogenisation – in this case Spanish clothing chain Inditex – and you’ve got the idea.

Now as much a part of the landscape as the famous Schweppes sign that looms nearby, the brothers have a facebook fan page and Madrid tourism are asking for tourists’ pictures with the brothers via their social networking sites. Weird yet wonderful, and only in España!

1/12/09 - Medina Mayrit – Madrid

Running in Heels discovered Medina Mayrit, a veritable oasis of relaxation and calm in the heart of Madrid that will chase the winter blues away…

http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/medina-mayrit/

 

Who would have thought that you could become more relaxed than you’d ever been in your life in the centre of Madrid? Not me. As I battled my way through the manic post-work commuters and into the busy Sol Plaza, I was stressed, annoyed and tired. Could there be a more perfect candidate to review a relaxing city spa? I think not.

Medina Mayrit means ‘the city of Madrid’ and it draws heavily on the city’s Muslim past to create the perfect spa experience. So armed only with a bikini I arrived anticipating the Best History Lesson Ever. Located a mere five minutes walk from the Sol metro stop, the red building stands out in the surrounding cityscape. This is the first clue that you’re about to experience something different.

There is a talk at the beginning but unfortunately it is only available in Spanish. Non–Spanish speakers can request a card explaining the rules of the baths and massages in English. The bathing experience begins once they finish their talk and escort you to the changing rooms hidden behind the imposing door. Once inside, you have truly escaped the hustle and bustle of the city centre.

Medina Mayrit adheres to the decor, design and atmosphere of its Arab roots with baths of hot, warm and freezing cold water. There is also a beautiful marble sauna and a tea room located within the baths where you can relax and sip the delicious sweet peppermint tea which is available on tap.

Soft music and flickering candles make Medina Mayrit a truly relaxing place to be

The walls are painted in warm colours and there are candles flickering throughout the baths. The request for silence from bath users means that it is rare to hear any other noises aside from whispers. Music plays softly in the background and everyone wanders from bath to bath at their leisure. There are small waterfalls throughout the baths so if you close your eyes you can drift away whilst listening to the water and the music. I spent the majority of my time floating on my back whilst gazing up the ceiling. Bliss.

There is no set routine to follow although a circuit of warm, hot, warm and finally, cold is recommended. A warning though: the cold baths are not for the faint of heart! They are designed in a plunge pool style which few users brave but the drastic change in temperature is an excellent idea because the contrast in temperature between the hot and oh so cold bath has a strong stimulating effect on blood stream. The subsequent sweating also means the toxins are being eliminated from your body.

Following on from the baths, you can also reserve an optional massage. A member of staff will collect you from the baths and the massages take place in a separate annex. I received the 30 minute relaxing massage which concentrated on my back and legs and nearly sent me to sleep! My only complaint would be that the massage room is communal and I received my massage right alongside complete stranger. However once the masseuse’s magic hands began their work I have to confess I forgot all about him.

The bath experience costs €23 and lasts for one hour. Massages are optional and prices range from €37 for the relaxing massage to €49.50 for the Al Andalus Ritual Massage. Keep in mind that these prices are for peak times and you can take advantage of slightly lower massage prices between 10am and midday and from 2pm to 4pm during the week. Anyone who fancies a late night dip is in luck as the spa stays open until midnight!

If you really don’t want to leave, adjoining the spa facilities is a teteria (a tea room with shisha pipes) and restaurant with traditional dishes accompanied by Andalucian music and a belly dancing spectacle where you can continue your Arab inspired ‘history lesson’. As I sailed home on the metro afterwards, full of relaxation and goodwill towards mankind and metro users, I vowed to head back here again and again. And I confess, a mere two weeks later I’ve already got the first stamp on my loyalty card!

For more information, see Medina Mayrit’s website (in Spanish and English)

Medina Mayrit,

C/Atocha, 14
28012 Madrid

Metro: Sol or Tirso de Molina